“Stop paying for pricey garden items - San Gabriel Valley Tribune” plus 4 more |
- Stop paying for pricey garden items - San Gabriel Valley Tribune
- SILVERSTONE LOVES TO GARDEN NAKED - PR Inside
- The home garden: spending more, enjoying it longer - Trentonian
- Vegetable garden invaders - Suwannee Democrat
- Will planners see light over historic home? - This is Dorset
Stop paying for pricey garden items - San Gabriel Valley Tribune Posted: 24 Aug 2009 07:01 PM PDT The garden center in The Home Depot always has been one of my favorite haunts. I just love to look. Now and then, I find great deals on starter plants, vegetables and flowers, but I am not fond of the high prices of fertilizers, weedkillers and pesticides. So I don't buy them. Instead, I make my own from stuff in the pantry and garage. Here are a few of my favorite "recipes" to promote your frugal gardening and lawn care, no matter where you live: Weedkiller. Open a 1-gallon container of white vinegar, and pour off at least 1 inch to create headspace. Add 2 cups of table salt and 8 drops of liquid dishwashing soap to the vinegar. Shake to dissolve. Cover it tightly, and then label it and store it in a safe place. Pour the mixture into a plastic spray bottle, and spray all unwanted vegetation. Caution: This will kill any living plant material, so beware. Repeated use eventually will sterilize the soil, so nothing will grow, even good stuff. This recipe is great for driveways, walkways, edging and places where you do not want anything to grow. Insect soap. Insect soaps are available in any organic gardening aisle, but gardeners can make a homemade spray that's just as effective for aphids, caterpillars and mites. Add 3 drops of mild dishwashing liquid to 1 quart of water. Add 1 tablespoon of cooking oil. Dispense through a spray bottle. Spray plants to the point of drenching, but don't spray on blossoms. Hot pepper bug repellent. Even if you don't like spicy foods, you should plant a row of hot chili pepper plants in your garden for their bug-repelling effects. Place a handful of dried hot peppers in the food processor, seeds and all, and grind to a dust. Take care not to get the dust on your skin or eyes. Sprinkle around garden plants to repel ants, onion maggots and other pests.Squirrel repellent. Mix 1 ounce of Murphy Oil Soap, 1 ounce of Tabasco sauce and <MD+,%30,%55,%70>1/<MD-,%0,%55,%70>4 teaspoon of cayenne pepper thoroughly. Pour the mixture into a large spray bottle. Fill the bottle with water, and mix. Spray areas where squirrels are unwanted. Mixture does not harm the squirrels; it repels them. Now I need to figure out how to outsmart the gophers that have decided to turn our front lawn into a buffet. I've got the recipe. I just need to figure out a good delivery system. Mary Hunt is the founder of www.DebtProofLiving.com and author of 18 books. You can e-mail her at mary@everydaycheapskate.com, or write to Everyday Cheapskate, P.O. Box 2135, Paramount, CA 90723. This posting includes an audio/video/photo media file: Download Now |
SILVERSTONE LOVES TO GARDEN NAKED - PR Inside Posted: 24 Aug 2009 05:57 PM PDT 2009-08-25 02:51:12 -
Sexy actress ALICIA SILVERSTONE loves to trim her hedges and mow her lawn in the nude. |
The home garden: spending more, enjoying it longer - Trentonian Posted: 16 Aug 2009 04:55 PM PDT This product image released by Arizona Pottery shows square poly resin planters with pine tree motif. The pair retail for $144. They are crack proof, Anti-Shock, weather proof and will never fade like typical plastic pottery. (AP Photo/Arizona Pottery) Retail may be in a drought, but for many garden supply stores, it's been a green season in more ways than one. This posting includes an audio/video/photo media file: Download Now |
Vegetable garden invaders - Suwannee Democrat Posted: 18 Aug 2009 05:54 AM PDT Published: August 18, 2009 07:41 am Vegetable garden invaders EXTENSION UPDATE By Carolyn Saft Suwannee County UF IFAS Horticulture Agent and Suwannee River Partnership Education Coordinator, Susan Webb and Freddie Johnson It is still blazing hot outside and many of us are waiting for the cooler weather to start our fall vegetable garden. While we are waiting, we can plan our strategy to combat unwelcome vegetable pests. Hopefully you have already started the soil solarization process, which helps reduce nematode populations. The next step is to learn what insects are likely to feed on our vegetables. We can do this while kicked back in our favorite chair and reading a University of Florida publication titled, Insect Management in the Home Garden, by Susan Webb and Freddie Johnson. You can go online or stop by our office for a copy of it. Following are a few guidelines that will get you started on your insect management strategies. First, we must realize insects can attack roots, stems, leaves, flowers and fruits at any growth stage. Many different insects attack vegetable crops and it is impossible to know from one season to the next which of these pests will cause problems. Some cause problems every year while others rarely appear. There are also many insects that are beneficial, and in some instances essential, to producing vegetables. Obviously it is best if we can learn the difference between harmful insects and beneficial insects. Some common insects that attack underground plant parts are wireworms (the larval stage of the click beetle), cutworms, mole crickets, grubs and lesser cornstalk borers. (The publication mentioned above provides more in depth information about each insect) Chewing insects that feed on leaves and stems are primarily caterpillars and some beetles. Be on the lookout for the following caterpillars: beet armyworm, fall armyworm, southern armyworm, yellow striped army worm, loopers (especially cole crops like cabbage, collards, cauliflower, broccoli), tomato hornworm and bean leaf rollers. A few of the unwelcome beetles are Colorado potato beetle, Mexican bean beetle, cucumber beetle and flea beetles. Other leaf feeding pests are leaf minors and pinworms Piercing and sucking insects that feed on the plants' leaves and stems are aphids, leaf footed plant bugs, leafhoppers, silver leaf whitefly, spider mites, stinkbugs and thrips. Problem pests that feed on seeds, pods and fruits are the corn earworms, pickle worms, cow pea curculios, pepper worms, potato tuber worms, stink bugs, tomato hornworm and wireworms. Yikes, what can we do about all of these pesky insects? Follow these guidelines to help reduce unwelcome garden pests: * Rotate the individual crops or families of crops within the garden so that the same vegetable is not grown in the same location more than once every three years. * Till or plow the soil well in advance of planting and pay particular attention to a plot that has previously been in grass. The garden should be well plowed and free of weeds, grass, etc., at least 30 days prior to planting. Add organic matter in the form of compost. * Randomly select plants and monitor or scout the garden twice weekly. This includes inspecting the plants from the bud to the soil including both upper and lower leaf surface. * Often large insects can be removed by hand and destroyed without use of chemicals; this should be practiced if possible. They will sink and drown if put in a container of soapy water. * Learn to identify beneficial insects (praying mantis, spiders, big-eyed bugs/assassin bugs, lady beetles, and all wasps). Often chemicals are used in error against these beneficials. * Learn to properly identify garden pests and use chemicals only when a serious pest problem exists. Carefully follow all directions on labels. * Insecticides should be carefully selected to control the pest in question or to reduce its numbers so that the garden will efficiently produce. Do not expect any insecticide to kill 100 percent of the pest in question and do not keep spraying or adding insecticide to accomplish this false goal. * When a chemical is used, be sure to spray the plant thoroughly so as to contact all tissue surface. * In order to reduce bee and other pollinator mortality, sprays are best applied late in the afternoon or early evening hours. Also, many garden pests are night feeders so this spraying schedule often accomplishes more. To reduce spray burn, make sure the plants are not under moisture stress. It is best to irrigate the garden thoroughly before spraying. * When baits are used they should be applied late in the afternoon since most insects (cutworms, crickets, etc.) that respond to baits are night feeders. * Sprays usually give better results than dusts. In many cases dusts will drift and kill many beneficial arthropods. Also, dusts are easily washed off by rain and irrigation, or blown off by wind, and it usually requires more actual insecticide in the dust form than in the spray form to accomplish the same degree of control. * Harvest the fruits, seeds, leaves, etc., as soon as they are ripe. Allowing over-ripe fruits to remain on the plants often invites additional insect, rat, and/or mice problems. * As soon as a plant is no longer productive remove it from the garden and destroy it. Do not pull it up and leave it in the garden area. * When the entire gardening project is over, cut down all remaining plants and plow them into the soil. * Do not use garden vegetable plants in any form to add to a mulch bed or compost bin. Vegetable plants can harbor insects, disease organisms, and nematodes that can easily survive organic decomposition. For more information, go online to http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/VH036, stop by our office to pick up a copy of the Insect Management in the Home Garden publication. Extension programs are open to all people regardless of race, color, sex, religion, disability or national origin. In accordance with the Americans with Disabilities Act, any person needing a special accommodation to participate in any activity should contact the Suwannee County Extension Service, Live Oak, Florida 32060 or telephone 386-362-2771 at least five working days prior to the event. Hearing impaired can access the foregoing telephone by contacting the Florida Relay Service at 1-800-955-8770 or 800-955-8772 (TDD). ![]() ![]() • Click to discuss this story with other readers on our forums.
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Will planners see light over historic home? - This is Dorset Posted: 24 Aug 2009 04:38 PM PDT Will planners see light over historic home?1:00am Tuesday 25th August 2009 WHEN is a clock tower a roof lantern? District councillors will decide today whether a controversial alteration to one of Gillingham's oldest buildings will go ahead. Gillingham man, Alastair Olver, has applied for permission to add a glass cube to the south side of The Old Coach House – a 16th century building in the back garden of his grade II listed home, The Barton. "For a year we have been working with the conservation officer to come up with a design that is in-keeping. The idea of a structure on the roof to give light came up. "It was described by the cons-ervation officer or my architect as a clock tower, but it's not. It's a roof lantern or a cupola – a glazed cube with a roof on top of it," said Mr Olver. The householder said he would be writing to councillors on the district planning committee to apologise for any confusion over the wording of the application. The unusual description has already caused consternation among town councillors. A recent meeting of civic plann-ers unanimously recommended that district councillors refuse the application. "I don't see the need for a clock tower that is fully glazed with no clock when a dormer window would do the job," Cllr Mick Lodge told the meeting. But planning officers at North Dorset District Council are recommending that councillors approve the application, subject to agreement over the so-called clock tower. Negotiations were continuing between his architect and the council's conservation officer, said Mr Olver, with amended details to be presented at the meeting today. Your sayYour Thisisdorset
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